Thursday, March 22, 2007
The Way A Man Should Dress...
from The Sartorialist. i totally agree with everything he says. for you guys out there who haven't a clue, read and take note! in addition to what he says, also notice how well the jacket fits, notably around the mid section and on the shoulders. despite what we think in the U.S., a jacket should actually fit quite snug, with very little extra fabric in any one area. also notice the height of the shirt collar. all of these things add up to a perfect ensemble! click on the picture to see more detail.
"This is Dario, he works at Cesare Attolini, one of the top sartorial clothiers in the world. When I look at this photo the first thing I notice is the perfect jacket/sleeve cuff ratio, but the second thing (and maybe more subtle but equally important) is the perfect length of the shirt sleeve itself. Similar to what we do to pants, most men in America wear their shirt's sleeves with way too much extra length in the arms. If you notice Dario's sleeves hit right at the base of his wrist without having the shirt cuff buttoned. I know a couple of guys in New York that like to do the "cuffs unbuttoned thing," but they wear the sleeves too long so it makes them look like the shirt doesn't fit correctly. I also think this way of wearing your shirt sleeve gives a very subtle illusion that makes a person look taller and more lanky. Think about it, tall people with long arms rarely wear sleeves that are too long. Their sleeves ride up on their arms a bit. I think it is something we see everday but don't really notice. Charlie Rose is a perfect example of this. I watch his show sometimes and I think the way he wears his shirts looks great and gives him a heightened sense of lankiness. Maybe because I am more of a muscular, square shape I'm always on the lookout for things that might, maybe, possibly give me just one ounce of "lank". I'd kill for a little lank."